How to do permanent eye makeup correctly?
The work starts with the correct selection of pigment color. To choose a shade that will harmonize as much as possible with the client’s appearance, you first need to assess the skin tone around the eyes, the color of the lashes and the desired effect.
The next stage is a schematic application of the future line. First, a light outline is drawn with a pencil or a special marker: it can be a thin line between the lashes or a full winged liner. The outline serves as a guide and allows you to visually assess how the result will look.
After that, the artist discusses the shape and intensity of the line with the client. It is important to take into account not only personal preferences, but also the anatomical features of the eyes:
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eye shape;
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set of the eyes;
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eyelid shape.
Once the outline is approved, you can proceed to applying the pigment. The coloring substance is carefully implanted under the upper layer of the skin, and it is important to monitor symmetry, evenness of color and smoothness of the line. The process requires concentration and precision, because even a small deviation can change the expression of the eyes.
How eyeliner is done on the eyes - tattooing
The first and most important step is choosing the shape of the eyeliner. There is no universal solution here: everything depends on the eye shape, eyelid structure and the desired effect. Types of eyeliner the artist can offer:
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Thin. A line along the lash line, ideal for everyday makeup and narrow eyes.
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Wide. A defined line with thickening toward the outer corner, “opens up” the eyes and suits larger eyes and statement looks.
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With a flick. The “cat eye” option makes the eyelids look more open and the eyes more expressive.
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Slightly extended. A gentle thickening of the line without harsh transitions, creating the effect of noticeable yet neat makeup.
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With shading. A soft smoky effect that imitates pencil eyeliner, perfectly hides asymmetry and is suitable for mature makeup.
Even a barely noticeable change of the outline can transform the gaze: it becomes deeper, fresher or softer. An experienced artist always focuses on the anatomy of the eyes:
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For a smooth eyelid without a crease, a shaded eyeliner that doesn’t “break” the shape works well.
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For close-set eyes, the emphasis is placed on the outer corners to visually increase the distance.
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With hooded or drooping lids, the “tail” of the liner is directed upward and slightly outward to elongate and “open up” the gaze.
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For deep-set eyes, the eyeliner follows the natural arch of the brows, lifting the line and shifting the focus away from the shadow.
Choosing pigment for the eyelids
The skin of the eyelids is very thin and sensitive, so organic pigments are preferred here. They settle well in the upper layer of the skin, distribute evenly, and the risk of irritation or inflammation is minimal.
The shade is selected taking into account the skin undertone, lash color and the desired effect. Light colors are suitable for soft daytime makeup and a natural effect, while more intense shades are used for a bold, accent look. The right pigment choice ensures a natural, long-lasting result that maintains color and shape for a long time.
Eyelid anesthesia: how to do eyeliner tattooing without pain
Another very relevant question most clients ask PM artists is: is eyeliner tattooing painful? In fact, the procedure does not cause discomfort, since all manipulations are performed under local anesthesia. A special numbing cream is used for the eyelids and applied only to the skin, with strict control to make sure it doesn’t get into the eyes (the product can cause a corneal burn).
Before applying the cream, the sketch must be fixed with a pencil or paste, and lightly powdered with a colorless powder so the outline doesn’t smudge. After that, the cream is evenly distributed over the eyelid, and the client keeps their eyes closed throughout the entire procedure.
It is important to control the exposure time of the anesthetic, because if you keep it on for too long, the skin becomes coarse, the needle will not penetrate well and unwanted results may appear. For example, the quality of shading may suffer, the line may lose sharpness, and the pigment may settle unevenly under the skin, etc.
Eyelid tattooing: work specifics
The first and most important rule of any invasive cosmetic procedure is strict hygiene and movements refined to the level of jewelry work. During the procedure there should be no blood or lymph. If this happens, it signals that the skin is tired: the vessels dilate, more plasma appears and swelling increases in that area. Continuing to work in such a zone is not allowed, as it may affect the result and the condition of the skin. Therefore, the skin must be allowed to rest, work should move to a new area, and if the procedure is not finished, you return later or postpone and complete it at the touch-up after healing.
Selecting the needle and its diameter is also critical. For the lash line and shading, the following are used:
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0.25 mm needle. The optimal diameter for precise work, allowing fine detail and minimal trauma.
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0.3–0.35 mm needle. A versatile option suitable for denser lines and shading.
Needles with a diameter of 0.1–0.2 mm or “twenties” are too traumatic for the eyelids, especially when working with shadow effects.
To ensure that the eyeliner is even and neat, and the procedure goes smoothly without unnecessary tissue trauma, it is important to choose the right tool for the specific task and the client’s skin type.
Why does eyelid tattooing turn blue and how to avoid it?
You may have noticed that in some girls/women, eyeliner applied with PM loses its color over time and becomes bluish or grayish. Such clients come to artists with the question: “why doesn’t permanent eye makeup heal properly” and why does it start to look messy over time? Let’s figure it out!
In permanent makeup there is the concept of color theory and skin undertone, which must always be taken into account. If the pigment is chosen incorrectly in relation to the client’s cool or warm undertone, the eyeliner can eventually turn blue or take on unwanted hues.
To avoid “blue” or “gray” eyeliner:
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The client’s skin undertone is determined before the procedure.
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A pigment is selected that compensates for potential color “cooling”.
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If necessary, orange correctors or base layers are used so that black stays rich and warm.
Correct color selection and proper work with the tool and pigment ensure even, long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing eyeliner that keeps its shape and shade for a long time.
How to fix eyeliner that has turned blue
If the color change is minor, you can try correcting the defect with color correction. You need to select a pigment with a warm undertone (for example, brown or with an orange base) to “compensate” for the coolness of the blue tint and restore a natural look to the eyeliner.
Powder shading (airbrushed technique) is also used over the old line. It helps to “blur” an overly cool shade, soften the line and hide the unwanted color shift. A combination of a small additional pass of pigment + light shading gives the most natural and stable result.
If correction does not help, the eyeliner can be removed or partially lightened, for example, with laser removal. After that, the procedure has to be done again with the correct pigment and technique.
Stages of eyelid tattoo healing — recommendations for clients
Regardless of the eyeliner tattoo technique, complete restoration of the epidermis takes about 5 days, and final pigment stabilization forms within 2–2.5 weeks.
Immediately after the procedure, the eyeliner looks bright and well-defined, and there may be redness and slight swelling. The swelling usually subsides within a day. In rare cases, it may last longer.
On the first day, lymphatic fluid is released — a natural reaction to trauma. The main task is to keep the skin dry, gently blotting the secretion with a cotton swab soaked in chlorhexidine or another antiseptic recommended by the artist. Rubbing the eyes and using fluffy fabrics is prohibited.
On the second day, the eyeliner becomes more intense due to the film left by the lymph. You can carefully wipe the skin 2–3 times a day with an antiseptic. If swelling persists, a dry cold compress is applied for 10–15 minutes.
On the third day, mild flaking and scabs appear. You must not pick them off with your hands, as this can lead to pigment loss and redness of the skin. At this stage, it is important to avoid contact with clothing and hair.
General recommendations for the first days:
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Do not use healing creams and ointments — they create a dense film and interfere with natural recovery.
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Do not apply mascara and do not use eye makeup.
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Do not steam the skin: baths, saunas, pools and intense workouts are best postponed for a week.
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You can wash your face with cool water, gently blotting the face and eyelid area with a special disposable cosmetic tissue.
On days five to seven, the flaking gradually subsides and the color of the eyeliner becomes lighter. The skin continues to heal, the pigment settles, and small imperfections may appear, which will later be corrected at the touch-up.
After the tenth day, you can use makeup and wash your face as usual, but it is recommended to visit baths, saunas and pools only a week later.
Following these recommendations will help preserve the shape and color of the eyeliner, minimize the risk of irritation and ensure the most long-lasting result.
