Hello 🫶🏻
Beauty Hunter and Anya Sakovskaya, teacher of Beauty Hunter LAB, as well as an eyebrow specialist and a lame maker are in touch! Today we will learn together how to build the correct architecture of the eyebrows before coloring.

Eyebrow modeling is the same integral part of eyebrow design as coloring. Of course, over time, an eye is developed and experienced craftsmen can work without marking, but absolutely all eyebrow stylists begin with building the correct shape of the eyebrow.

With the help of markup, you can correct or change the shape of the eyebrows, correct asymmetry, and also show the client how the future eyebrows will look like.

 


Eyebrow Marking Products

To create markup, you can use both paste and pencil. What are the differences?

The paste has a dense creamy texture, protects the skin from staining, is applied with a synthetic brush (straight or beveled) and can be easily removed with a damp cotton pad. We work with paint and henna in conjunction with the paste, without going into it.

Pencil - has a powdery texture, passes paint and henna (dye can be "stepped" on the pencil. Easily cleaned with a degreaser, shampoo or special products such as Okis Clean Lines.

By the way, there is also a hybrid option - eyebrow paste in a pencil. A white pencil combines texture like a paste and ease of use like a pencil.

It is good for an experienced master to be able to make markings both with paste and with a pencil. Application methods are different, but the result is worth it.

 

 

Eyebrow marking tools

If we have already decided on marking products, now let's talk about accessories and tools with which you can build the correct eyebrow architecture. Each master also chooses tools from his own preferences and ease of use. It is better for a beginner to try different possible options in order to make a choice for himself.


To mark the shape of the eyebrows, there are such accessories:

  • Thread for marking. You can use a classic thread for threading and dye it into a paste. One of the most convenient ways to model eyebrows! With the help of a thread, you can immediately build and mark parallels at anchor points, and then simply round the bend and apexes. 
    Variations on a theme - coloring thread for marking. The thread is immediately saturated with coloring liquid and is very convenient to use. Of the minuses - it dries faster and, as a rule, the thread in the skein is much shorter than in the usual one for threading.
  • Line for marking. A reliable way to line up parallels and main lines and further measure symmetry. 
    Variations on a theme - eyebrow caliper.
  • Brushes for marking and cleaning up lines. An absolute must-have tool for both ink and pencil work. Most often, a straight wide brush is chosen for marking - it is convenient for her to build a parallel with applying movements or clean up the markings with a pencil. The verdict is a must-have accessory, you can't go anywhere without it!

 

 

How to build the shape of the eyebrows?

The correct architecture of the eyebrows is built on the reference points of the beginning of the eyebrows, the apex (the upper point of the eyebrow bend), the lower bend of the eyebrow and the tail. You need to clearly understand where the eyebrow should begin, where it should end and where the bend should be.

Step-by-step instructions for building the shape of the eyebrows

  1. Determine the center of the face. To do this, we need to draw a visual vertical line through the middle of the chin, the tick of the upper lip and the middle of the nose. We leave the first point between the eyebrows.
  2. Determine the beginning of the eyebrow (points 1 and 2). To do this, we draw a visual vertical line through the wings of the nose (piercing point) up to the eyebrow and leave a point at the beginning of the lower horizontal line, this will be point one 1. 
    In order to find point 2, we just need to move point 1 parallel to the upper horizontal based on the width of the eyebrow.
  3. The next step is the arch of the eyebrow, point 3 (the break on the lower horizontal) and the apex, point 4 (the highest point of the eyebrow, the break on the upper horizontal).  
    We draw a visual line through the wing of the nose and the pupil (while the client should look straight), we find point 3 on the lower horizontal and point 4 on the upper horizontal will also be visible here. The apex will be moved a little closer to the tail than the arch.
  4. It remains to find the tail of the eyebrow, point 5. We draw a visual line through the wing of the nose and the outer corner of the eye and set point 5.

 

All the dots are placed and it remains to connect them. Let's start from the bottom horizontal:
Connect point 1 to point 3.
Connect point 3 to point 5.

We pass to the harmful horizontal:
Connect point 2 to point 4.
We connect point 4 with point 5.

Depending on the shape of the face and the wishes of the client, the curve can be more broken or rounded.

 

 

 

Important!

  • Point 1 and point 5 must be on the same horizontal line.
  • Points 1, 3 are always parallel to points 2, 4.
  • The tail should occupy 1/3 of the entire eyebrow (remember the rule of the golden ratio).

Well, our ideal markup is ready, you can start coloring🫶🏻