Color theory is one of the foundations for many beauty professions: eyebrow stylists, makeup artists, hair stylists, nail masters. Knowing the principles of color combinations and working with a color palette is a must for every beauty master who wants to approach their work competently.
The main tool when working with color is Itten's color wheel. In this blog, we will tell you what Itten's color wheel is, what colors are primary, secondary and tertiary, consider the principles of color combinations and how to use them in your work.
What is Itten's color wheel?
The principles of color combination are used not only in the work of many beauty professions, but also underlie the production of products (hair or eyebrow dyes, decorative cosmetics, materials for nail design, etc.)
Itten's color wheel is a visual diagram of the formation and interaction of colors, which is based on 12 colors (primary, secondary and tertiary colors).
Itten's color wheel is the most famous and simple scheme.
A short excursion into history:
Johannes Itten is a Swiss artist and art theorist, author of the book "The Art of Color" (by the way, we highly recommend reading it). Itten was not the first to work on the systematization of color, its combinations and perception. But Itten's color wheel is the simplest and most universal scheme for the formation and combination of colors.
How Itten's color wheel works
Itten's color wheel is presented as a circular diagram based on 12 colors, which are distributed in such a way as to visualize their relationship. These colors are divided into primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet) and tertiary (yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green and yellow-green). Each color in Itten's circle is further divided into warm and cold shades.
Primary colors in Itten's circle
Itten's color wheel is based on three colors, which are called primary colors:
- red;
- yellow;
- blue.
These are the basic colors, which are located at an equal distance from each other around the circle. These colors cannot be obtained by mixing other shades; they serve as the basis for all other colors.
Essentially, all the shades we see are the result of a combination of primary colors in different proportions.
Secondary and Tertiary Colors
Let's recall school drawing lessons. Surely, everyone remembers a lesson where a third was obtained by mixing two shades. Secondary and tertiary colors are formed in the color wheel by the same principle.
Secondary colors are formed by mixing two primary colors - red, yellow and blue. In the color wheel, these colors are located in the middle between the primary colors.
Secondary colors include:
- orange (a mixture of red and yellow);
- green (a mixture of yellow and blue);
- violet (a mixture of blue and red).
Tertiary colors are formed by mixing one primary and one secondary color. In the color wheel, they occupy an intermediate position between the primary and secondary colors.
Tertiary colors include:
- yellow-orange;
- red-orange;
- red-violet;
- blue-violet;
- blue-green;
- yellow-green.
White and black in color theory
White and black stand completely apart in the color scheme. They are not represented on the classic Itten color wheel, since they are not spectral.
Recalling school physics lessons: white is based on the entire light spectrum, that is, white is a combination of all colors. Black, on the contrary, is a complete absence of light and color.
However, in color theory, white and black are the most important elements in creating shades and tones. White is used for lightening, creating lighter shades of primary and secondary colors. Black darkens colors, giving them depth and saturation, which makes shades more expressive.
Warm and cold shades on the color wheel
Additionally, in the color wheel, colors are divided into warm and cold, which determines their perception.
Warm colors include red, orange, yellow and all shades formed by mixing them. These shades look brighter and, from the point of view of human perception, seem to "come closer" and create a feeling of warmth and comfort.
Cold shades include blue, green, purple and all shades formed by mixing them. Visually, cold shades seem to "move away" and are associated with a feeling of coolness.
According to the color wheel, the visual division into warm and cold shades runs approximately along the line connecting yellow-green and red-violet colors.
Incidentally, it is worth noting that yellow-green and red-violet can be perceived as both warm and cold shades, depending on the predominance of basic shades in them.
Itten Color Wheel Color Combination Schemes
Itten's color wheel is the basis for the principles of color combination and harmony.
There are three main principles/schemes for color combination: complementary colors, analogous colors, and triadic colors.
Complementary - a combination based on two colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel. Such colors create a strong contrast and mutually reinforce each other, making the combination bright and dynamic.
Analogous - the colors are next to each other on the color wheel. Such colors have one common primary color component and create a harmonious combination. Analogous color schemes are often used to create a calm and balanced effect.
Triad - a combination based on three colors evenly distributed around the color wheel. Such a scheme creates a bright and balanced contrast, often used to create a dynamic and lively effect.
Additional combinations include: split-complementary, compound (double complementary), square, shades and monochromatic.
Split complementary - a color scheme that includes one primary color and two colors placed next to its complementary color. This scheme provides high contrast and harmony, but with less tension than a complementary combination.
Compound (double complementary) - a color scheme that includes two pairs of complementary colors. This scheme uses four colors that form a rectangle or square on the color wheel.
Square - a color scheme based on four colors that are evenly distributed around the circle to form a square. This scheme includes two pairs of complementary colors, creating rich and balanced color contrast.
Shades - the use of different colors, hues and saturations of a single color. Creates an elegant and professional effect, in which the emphasis is on form and content, rather than color contrast.
Monochromatic - a combination of different shades, tones and saturations of one color. This color scheme uses one main color, which varies in brightness (from light to dark) and saturation (from saturated to less saturated).
You can choose a suitable color scheme using the Color.adobe.com website
Using the color wheel in the beauty industry
The color wheel is an important tool in the beauty industry, both directly in the work of the masters, and in the development and production of cosmetics.
Here it is appropriate to recall the concept of color types of appearance by seasons: winter, spring, summer, autumn. This is where beauty masters most often work with the color wheel, with the combination of colors and their temperature. Color types of appearance are actively used by makeup artists, hairdressers-colorists and eyebrow masters to correctly determine the appearance of the client and suitable shades that will emphasize the advantages of the client.
For example, to create makeup, you can use complementary colors (opposite each other on the circle) for contrast, or analogous colors (located next to each other) for a softer and more natural look.
Or - selection of a shade by the color temperature of the skin tone (warm shades look better on warm skin types, and cold ones - on cold ones).
Makeup with complementary colors
Makeup using analogous colors
Often, beauty professionals use color correction in their work. Here it is appropriate to recall the term “neutralization”, which is based on the principle of color complementarity:
- Neutralization of yellowness, if you want to get neutral or ash shades. Warm yellow is neutralized by cold violet.
- In makeup, you can neutralize the redness of the skin with a green corrector, and with a peach one - blue under the eyes.
- When working with old permanent makeup, professionals often encounter a blue, gray or green undertone, for the neutralization of which the appropriate correctors are used.
The principle of combining and forming colors is the basis for the creation of any dyes, including eyebrow dyes.
Classic brown is created by combining green and red, a huge palette of brown shades - by combining orange with black or blue, yellow and violet.
Knowing the basics of color combinations will also help during photo and video shooting to create a rich and saturated picture, select an image and accessories.
Itten's color wheel and color combination schemes are an indispensable tool in the world of the beauty industry, providing makeup artists and stylists with important knowledge for creating harmonious and attractive images. Having mastered the basic principles of color theory, you can more accurately select shades, emphasize the strong points of appearance and hide flaws, while creating a unique style for each client.
The color wheel not only enriches the creative process, but also opens up new opportunities for experimentation, allowing you to find ideal combinations!
